These small insect eating rodents make great family pets. I am relatively new to them and already I am addicted. They look like a cross between a Russian hamster and a "normal" gerbil. Duprasis very rarely bite, but they occasionally nibble the fingers, more out of curiosity than anything else.
They have a coat similar to a chinchilla and, like the chinchillas also enjoy a dust bath. This helps to keep the coat clean and in good condition. Mine are a sandy colour with a white underside. They have a pointed face and lovely long whiskers that never seem to stop moving. When adult they are about 13 cm from nose to tail and almost oval shape.
They are also known as Fat-Tailed Gerbils. This because they have an unusual tail in which they store fat, as the camel with its hump. The fatter the tail, the healthier the animal is. The tail is bald looking but has tiny peach-like hairs on it.
I hope the following information is of some use to you.
The best accommodation is a large tank (minimum 10 gallons), with lots of sawdust as they love to dig. They also need things to chew. I give mine cardboard tubes, boxes and pieces of wood. It isn't worth spending a lot of money on toys and accessories as they will either be chewed to bits in no time or buried. The lid of the tank must be secure, if not they will manage to escape. Catching them isn't too difficult compared to other rodents.
They love an exercise wheel and will play on it for hours. The difficulty is that if you have a wheel that has suckers to stick it to the glass they will eventually find and chew the suckers, making it useless. On the other hand, one with a stand will quickly get buried. It is worth the added aggravation as they do enjoy the wheel so much, though the wheel must be solid to avoid accidents with feet and tails. If the wheel is open, then weave something like cardboard through the spokes to make it safer.
For the sleeping quarters either pet shop bedding for hamsters/gerbils can be used or good old-fashioned toilet roll torn into pieces. They will do the rest (it also gives them something to do). If a duprasi has nothing to do, it just sleeps very soundly. I have had a few scares thinking I had a dead rodent when it was only sleeping.
Give them a small wooden box for sleeping in. It should not be plastic as it will be quickly chewed. Alternatively, use a coloured glass jar. This is better as it is easily washed when necessary.
Unlike other gerbils the fat-tails must have insects in their diet. I use mealworms and crickets. They are much loved by the animals. I believe some people use raw chicken and cat-food instead of insects. I have not tried mine on an alternative so I cannot comment on whether it works or not. I did once give them a tiny piece of raw chicken and it was eaten very quickly. They need the insects at least 3 times a week. Also they must have a constant supply of dry gerbil/hamster food. As with all animals feed them the best quality food you can.
The duprasi, like other gerbils love fruit and veg. A small piece every couple of days should be ok. Again as with all animals a supply of fresh clean drinking water should always be available. An unchewable bottle attached to the side is best. A bowl can not be used as they will bury it. Likewise, the food bowl is better to be made from unchewable metal or ceramic material. This also will often get buried.
The duprasi is sexually mature at around 3 months. The pair can live together but the male must be removed before any babies are born. My male was bullied by the female when she was pregnant and had to be removed as he was losing condition very quickly. He soon put all his weight back on when he was housed on his own. They have an interesting mating "dance", Almost jumping up and boxing each other and then running around the tank before mating takes place.
The litterof 1-6 babies arrive about 19+ days after mating.They are born bald and helpless. Mum makes a nest and should not be disturbed. The babies develop very quickly and look like small adults by 3 weeks. Their eyes have opened by this time and then they start coming out of the nest. Mother is frantic when this first happens and pulls them back constantly. After about a week she gives up and they run around all the time. Ater the birth mum should be fed daily and get more insects as she needs the protein.
They are able to be re-homed at 6 weeks if they are eating and drinking by them selves. It is very important to handle the babies. This is best done after their eyes are open. The babies are very quick and wriggly so be careful not to drop them, but they do settle down as they get older. The male can be put back in with the female about a week after the babies are away. Make sure she does not attack him at first and that she has had plenty of protien to build her up.
Sexing is not so easy in babies. The female tends to be slightly larger than the male. As the fur comes in it is easier to tell the female as her nipples are easily seen, but they are soon covered up. The male's vent and anus are further apart than the female. There is also a line that runs down the middle of where the testicles will be when they develop. As the rodents get older they are easier to sex, as the male will have testicles.
Duprasis make excellent pets, especially for children. As I have already said, they very rarely bite. Females tend to be a bit nippier than the males and they are also very protective of their babies and will bite during pregnancy but it can be forgiven in these curcumstances. They are almost odourless. After the initial outlay of the pet (which can be dear compared to other pet rodents) and the equipment they are cheap to keep. They live for about five years, longer than most pet rodents and so are worth the extra cash. They will sit in the hand just watching what is happening around. They are also famous for sleeping in cute positions, particularly on their backs with bellies in the air. This they will also do in a trusted hand.
If you have any questions or want to add anything to this page please e-mail me. I would love to hear your comments.
