Antennas & Miscellaneous
The Shack - January, 2008
The Shack - July, 2007
In my first multiband antenna effort I
duplicated
the "Attic Coaxial Cable Trap Dipole for 10, 15, 20, 30, 40, and 80
Meters" by John DeGood, NU3E. This first picture above shows final
tweaking of the resonant trap frequencies before cementing the cable on
to the form using an EICO grid dip oscillator loosely coupled to the
trap for the minimum dip and an S&S frequency
counter.
I was getting pretty good at making
these :) I
found it best to build my traps with a small amount of extra inductance
and then spread the coils to reduce inductance that increased
the
resonant frequency to target - alot easier than adding cable
after
winding! I used super glue to adhere the coils to the PVC. A couple of
drops at each winding wicked nicely all around the
circumference.
My traps were then painted black to improve "Curb appeal".
This antenna DID work, although I did
not make any
contacts with it on 10 or 15 meters due to band conditions. I just did
not receive signal reports on 30 or 40 meters that were near comparable
to my old monoband dipoles. Obviously the mounting location
was
not helping things with the TV antenna and gutters right below . With
10 traps, I believe I learned about antenna losses first hand in this
project. Being a QRP guy I think the 10 traps ate my little signal for
lunch. Still a really good antenna, documented first class by
Mr.
DeGood, and a very reproducable project. The amount of bands it covers
in such a small space with such a
good match is quite an achievement IMO. If I was not a QRP operator -
this antenna would still be up. I may resurrect it as I still have the
traps!
This
is another Norcal keyer kit. This time its built into a box with all
the controls panel mounted. I needed a box like this since I never
installed a keyer in my Oak Hills 40 meter rig, and the Ten Tec Delta
from 1981 required a keyer as well. Then there is the fact that I am
only going to use one paddle for all my rigs. This box can switch the
paddle between up to four rigs (See below). It also can provide a
sidetone
for my Oak Hills 40 meter rig when using it on speaker - since that rig
has too weak a sidetone volume for speaker operation IMO.
My five band, remote tuned vertical antenna (Base view)
Original Tuner
Box
* Updated Tuner Box *
This is the remote tuner box for my 34
foot aluminum
vertical antenna. I decided to base the antenna on a 40 meter, 1/4 wave
- since I enjoy 40 meter operation alot.
The whole multiband vertical project was
based on
the methods and ideas of N3OX published at his marvelous website. I had the
remnants of my old GAP Challenger and also picked up an old aluminum CB
antenna at another hamfest. This would be the raw material for the
vertical.
The standard formulas told me 33.5 feet for 7.040 Mhz., but EZNEC
insisted on 34.5 feet and had the graph to prove it. Maybe it was the
'stepped diameter correction factor', but I thought that using tubing
would make an antenna shorter. Anyway I decided to go with the EZNEC
numbers.
After laying out the antenna for 7.040
Mhz in the
EZNEC demo, I followed the instructions at N3OX's website for
using L_tuner.exe for the
L network components, and then used SOLNOID_3.exe to figure the
inductor sizing. I picked up a 2.5 x 9 inch airdux coil at the hamfest
for $1, and segmented it per the software. The relays and gearmotor
were ordered online, and I finally got to use one of the air variable
caps out of the junk box that was as old as I am!
The main "Coax Bus" and "Ant Bus" lugs
are house
service panel neutral bus bars from Home Depot. The smaller terminal
strips you may recognize from Radio Shack. My only gripe about this
gear motor is that the output shafts have flats and are metric - this
layed to waste all of my old 1/4" couplings, shafts, verniers and
adapters. I finally settled on the stiff, black, plastic shipping tube
that a childs' 'glow necklace' is packaged in for the coupling shaft
from the position pot to the gearmotor. Fight metrics with metrics ;)
The entire board is enclosed in a Martha Stewart food container for
weatherproofing and ventilated with holes and screening at the bottom.
* Update 09/07* After about two months of
operation, significant corrosion was evident in the tuner box on the
hardware. Probably a combination of disimiliar metals and the hot and
humid box being mounted one foot off the ground. I started to have
trouble with the relay contacts conducting poorly as a result. Cycling
the relays helped sometimes, but gradually would not improve the
operation (SWR) at all. After attempting to remove relays for
contact cleaning it became apparent that my "Hardwiring" of the
original relays would be unacceptable for future maintenance. I decided
to replace the whole set Sept. 2007 with heavier duty relays of plug in
design. The new units are Magnecraft 3PDT 15A instead of the 4PDT 5A
old ones. These were reasonably priced and available with the sockets
at Mouser. The contacts are also gold flashed (Should help on the
corrosion) and of course they are now easily unplugged and removable
for cleaning should it be necessary.
EZNEC shows the main lobe angles as follows:
80m 27 deg
40m 26 deg
30m 24 deg
20m 19 deg
17m 16 deg (Lobe is just starting to
deform)
On 15m the antenna suprisingly should
require no
matching to 50 ohm coax, however the launch angle jumps up to 46 deg.
So this band was not included. With the current low in the sunpot cycle
though, I have time to come up with somthing else for the higher bands
anyway. I do not have any plans to install 80m radials for it at this
time. Whatever I can get on 80m right now - I get. However I have now
been able to contact Michigan and West Virginia from my Chicago area
QTH on 80m with 5w during the summer's high QRN - so good enough for
me. The signal reports
on 20, 30, and 40 meters so far are comparable to my other monoband
antennas running 5w, even a couple of Euros on 30m - so I am pleased.
Regardless, I really learned alot on the
project making it very worthwhile anyway.
This is the remote tuner control head. I had some trouble finding out
after 3 weeks that my plus and minus 5V power supply commercial board
was on "Backorder". Although I had already constructed the N3OX servo
control circuit, I did not want to wait another 2 weeks to order the
minus 5V regulator online and then begin construction of the suitable
power supply. So my 'plan B' was just a SPDT switch firing + 5V to the
gearmotor.
I also used an idea by W0RPV published
in Volume 2
of the ARRL Antenna Compendium "A Remotely Controlled Antenna Coupler".
He used a pair of LED's in parallel with 3 ohm resistors in each feed
line to the motor to indicate when the motor stalled after hitting a
stop. The LED's illuminate during high current draw. I had to
experiment with the resistor values for my installation - but the idea
worked out fine.
I used a 12V/1.7 A power supply, neon
lamp, and
panel meter from the junk box. A LM317 regulator board for the +5V was
then built and added inside the box. The 12V supply feeds the LM317
circuit, and is also for switching the relays through the rotary
switch.
The panel meter face was replaced with photo paper and marked after
finding the best match position of the air variable capacitor on the
different bands.
I whipped this homebrew paddle up using some hacksaw blades after
reading an article over at Eham.net. It was good enough to start
practicing paddle moves on.
The American Morse KK-2 portable paddle kit.
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