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The following travelogue was written in 1972 after taking
a two week long island hopping tour and visiting the hams of the Caribbean
area.
On this trip my wife Eva WA2BAV and I WB2AQC took along
my father-in-law Steve YO2BGP who was visiting us from Romania. We
visited 11 islands plus Venezuela which happened to be on our way.
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We took a plane from New York City and we landed in Point-a-Pitre
late in the evening. We booked the trip on MS Istra, a small but fine
Yugoslav vessel that was leaving at midnight, so we had some time to roam around.
We checked in our luggage on the ship, and went to look for
Jean-Pierre FG7XL and his wife Monique, residents of this island, with whom
previously we had several QSOs. Five minutes from the pier was their home,
but the front door was already locked when we arrived. If their neighbors
never had a chance to listen to a late night pile-up type of serenade, now they
got it: the three of us, standing on the dark street, calling, “FG7XL, FG7XL,
this WB2AQC ... WA2BAV ...”
Even a lonely passerby, high on spirits, joined us in yelling,
mixing up the letters of the callsigns, but with lots of enthusiasm. Finally,
after every window of the building was lit, Jean-Pierre opened the door and
invited us in for a short visit. Our helper was left outside and we found
him there an hour later when we came out; he was trying to remember the letters
he was calling before and was mumbling to himself.
Monique told us about their JY9XL operation in Jordan, and we
told them about our West African DXpedition. My father-in-law Steve, YO2BGP,
who could speak neither English, nor French, nodded approvingly to what everybody
said. To test him, I said: “Steve, you look very foolish today.”
He smiled widely from ear to ear and kept repeating: “Da, da, da ...”
Finally we boarded the ship and made a secret arrangement with
one of the officers to mark my father-in-law on the passengers’ list as US citizen.
He was traveling with a Romanian passport and that would have complicated his
landing on several of these islands.
At the end of the cruise, two weeks later, we had a chance to
see Point-a-Pitre by day. The market was interesting but I prefer to shop
for food in a clean supermarket. I don’t recommend spending too much time
in Point-a-Pitre.
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On a previous Caribbean cruise we visited Antigua but didn’t
meet any amateurs because we landed at “English Harbour, “the wrong side of
the island.” Most hams were in St. John’s.
This time we got to the right side of the island but we met
the “wrong” man. I had written to Barney, VP2AA, asking to meet him but
he didn’t answer. In Antigua I called him up but after being questioned
at length, by a man I had the feeling that was Barney himself, I was told that
Barney wasn’t home and probably would return late. On our way to visit
another ham we saw a house with a big beam. Quite happy that we had found
a ham, we entered and ... surprise ... who was there and finishing his lunch?
Barney, VP2AA, who allegedly was not home and was returning late. Barney
declared: “I’m not interested in meeting foreigners ...,” letting me understand
that my face was too pale to be accepted by him. This was the first time
I met discrimination among hams and I’m sure it is a rare exception.
Searching for friendly amateurs we found two CBers, Jim, the
“Red Fox,” an American; and Arnold “Kitty Hawk,” an Antiguan. Both were
very enthusiastic about ham radio and with their help we met Jerry VP2AC, a
newsman, excellent ham and DXpeditioner. There aren’t many like him on
this island. I recommend skipping Antigua; touristically I could not find
there anything interesting.
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In Charlotte Amalie, St. Thomas, a ham has to do two things:
buy duty free liquor and meet Dick, KV4AA, in his electrical appliance store.
We did both, and through Dick we met Darell, KV4HI.
Returning to “buying duty free liquor” I have to say that I
did not find to be such a bargain. First of all, because a bottle is $2-3.00
cheaper than at home, people are stocking up with various kinds what otherwise
will never buy. Then to save a few bucks they have to carry with them
the heavy stuff, and pack them carefully not to break them.
Darell took us sightseeing and to his QTH located at an altitude
of 850 feet, a quarter of a mile from the ocean. What a sight and most
of all what a position for his beam! Eva and I made a few QSOs with much
better success than from our home station.
While there, Darell’s daughter, Timisa, came home. Darell
knowing that we are originally from Romania, told us the following story:
“When our daughter was born my wife and I were looking to give
her a nice name. I had a long QSO with a guy from Romania, who said that
his name was George and his QTH was Timisoara. We liked the sounding of
Timisoara but it was too long for the baby’s name. We shortened it and
gave her the name of Timisa.”
“I would not believe your story - I told Darell -
but I was that George from Timisoara who in 1958 had a QSO with you.”
This was the way I found out that I was a kind of god-father
to a little girl in St.Thomas.
There aren’t too many active hams on this island, but if you
meet one like Darell, KV4HI, that’s all you need. I recommend strolling
along the docks, admiring the beautiful ships and boats, and window shopping
on the main street. And leave alone the “cheap” booze.
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Everybody is a friendly host in Puerto Rico. The climate
is hot but pleasant, the sights are magnificent and there are plenty of hams.
What else could we ask for?
We docked early in the morning and went sightseeing, - Old San
Juan, San Cristobal, El Morro fortress - all a photographer’s delight.
We spent the afternoon with Jose, KP4DDO, a college student
who was active in every contest and pile-up, and guest operated his station,
signing portable KP4.
Jose has decorated a large wall of his radio room with specially
selected QSLs which fluoresce with beautiful colors when illuminated with an
ultra violet lamp.
With Jose we went to see Eliot, KP4DSH; and later Alicia, KP4CL;
and her husband Felix, KP4CK. Although we had met these people before,
the Spanish hospitality has no limits.
Puerto Rico should be visited by everybody who goes down to
the Caribbean, not as a DXpeditioner, because there are plenty of KP4s on the
air, but just for the beauty of the island.
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There is quite a large number of Dominican amateurs in New
York City, operating under the Reciprocal Operating Agreement, or with American
call if they already acquired US citizenship. They were very helpful,
informing their friends back home about our visit, so when we docked at Santo
Domingo, Felix, HI8FED; Jose, HI8JD; and his very pretty daughter, Maira, were
waiting for us at the pier.
Together we went sightseeing, visiting the oldest cathedral
in the Western hemisphere, dating from 1512, where we were told that the remains
of Christopher Columbus are kept. There is another cathedral in Spain
making the same claim. That’s like Chris could make up his mind where
to get his much deserved rest.
Later we visited the new amateur radio club house, built with
funds collected slowly from enthusiastic, but not very wealthy hams.
I was told that is quite easy to get a Dominican license, not
only a “portable HI8,” but a real HI8 call. The call will be HI8X.., the
letter X after the district number shows that the license belongs to a foreign
ham.
One of the best and most expensive hotels in Santo Domingo,
“El Ambajador,” employs 3 or 4 amateurs. Peri, HI8PM, the hotel’s chief
accountant, said the hotel will reserve the most adequate rooms, will even help
installing the antenna, for any amateur wishing to spend a nice Caribbean vacation
and DXpedition in the same time.
We visited Felix’s family and of course his station HI8FED.
Felix is an MD and a college professor. We had dinner in his house and
we ate local specialties, most of which I’ve never seen before.
Periandron, HI8NDV, and Bolivar, HI8BC, came there to see us,
and that’s just what they did; they looked at us with friendly smiles and answered
every question with the same magic sentence: “No speak Ingles.”
Later, on the way to visit Jaime, HI8JE, our car passed several
military check points. The soldiers waived their machine guns, looked
at the passengers, but not even Steve, my scared and suspicious looking father-in-law,
presented any problem. Steve was very lucky because he was traveling with
a Romanian passport and did not have the required visas; we just smuggled him
in and out, from island to island.
There was quite a ham gathering at Jaime’s house - about 15
amateurs with their wives. They presented me with a beautiful “welcome
award,” hand made on a very thick parchment, written in Spanish. I don’t
understand what it says, so I prefer to think it’s a “welcome award.”
Otherwise, how would I justify having it framed and hung in my radio room?
I recommend a vacation-DXpedition on this island, but it would
be very useful if you learned some Spanish before going. On your way there
you could stop in my radio room, read my “award” and tell me all about it.
Don’t miss the chance to meet local hams.
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I was very curious about this country. Most of what I
read and heard about it was not very flattering. The regimes of Papa Doc
and Bebe Doc, and the terror of the Toton Macoute did not seem to be very attractive
even for a short visit. And because Haiti was the only place in the Western
Hemisphere where amateur radio was practically illegal, I did not have too much
sympathy for it.
In Port-au-Prince, on our way from the docks to the center of
the city, I noticed two men following us at about 40 yards distance. To
make sure about the surveillance, we crossed the street several times and the
also crossed it. When we stopped; they also stopped. At an interesection
I left Eva and Steve turn the corner and continue walking, and I was waiting
for them. When they arrived I greeted them the friendliest way I could
fake and said:
“God morning monsieur, there many people on the streets, it’s
possible we may loose each other. Better let’s walk together.”
The gentlemen, and I am using this term very loosely, looked
surprised and angry but did not answer. I enterred a store and when I
came out they were gone. I hope I did not hurt their feelings too much.
During our short stay, I disliked the pushy guides and
taxi drivers; the noisy, aggressive and hard bargaining merchants; and the extreme
poverty displayed everywhere. But I have to recognize that the Haitians
are artistically talented; the best woodcarving and the most beautiful primitive
paintings in the whole Caribbean area are made here.
I visited Julius, HH2JT, at that time the only active ham in
the whole country. Julius, an American running a large assembling factory,
a very nice guy, was not too active on the air. Julius had an excellent
rig, a very good location on a hill outside Port-au-Prince, and being the only
ham in Haiti, he enjoyed a special status. However, this situation was
not always desirable: when he was calling a rare DX station for his DXCC, he
had to fight not only the pile-up calling the same station, but many other stations
calling him.
In Julius’s house I picked up a local newspaper and read the
headlines:
“Senator Barry Goldwater is in Port-au-Prince.”
“He’s also an amateur radio operator - K7UGA, “ said Julius.
“I know,” I answered, “I collaborated with him in amending the
Communications Act, so that immigrant hams can apply for American licenses even
before they get US citizenship.”
“Let’s go and see him,” suggested Julius. We drove to
the best hotel in town where we supposed Sen. Goldwater would stay. Julius
went inside to inquire and I - having a 6th sense to locate hams - went directly
to the swimming pool. There he was, resting under the sun, Barry K7UGA.
“Senator Goldwater,” I said, “I am George, WB2AQC.”
The Senator seemed pleasantly surprised and quickly jumped up.
I guess his jump was too sudden because it triggered two uniformed special guards
hiding in the nearby bushes. They were moving fast towards me, pointing
their submachine-guns. Fortunately, the Senator was between them and me,
and he came forward with a big smile and shook my hand. The guards missed
their big chance to prove their bravery and retreated to the bushes.
In the meantime, Julius, Eva and Steve arrived and I introduced
them.
We had a nice time talking about ham radio, but finally, we
had to return to our ship. At the departure we said good-bye to Barry
K7UGA, and just to be on the safe side, I bowed toward the bushes, yelling “Au
revoire monsieur.” Some tourists walking by looked at me with suspicion
because I was talking to the bushes, but I knew what’s good for me!
I recommend buying woodcarving at the Iron Market, paying a
third of the asking price. Don’t ask too many questions, and don’t talk
politics with anybody.
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From New York I wrote a letter to the Jamaica Amateur Radio
Association, telling about our trip. When our ship, the MS Istra, docked
in Kingston, a welcoming group was waiting for us. There was Lloyd, 6Y5LA;
Eric, 6Y5ED; and his 12 year old son Earle, who was a second operator.
Earle, believe it or not, copied code at 30 words/minute.
After the customary sightseeing, we visited the headquarters
station 6Y5RA in the Red Cross building and later four other amateur radio stations.
The first was 6Y5ED. Eric had a very good beam but no rotator. Every
time he wanted to change direction, his second operator Earle ran up to the
roof, climbed the tower and turned the antenna.
The second station was 6Y5LA; Lloyd is the president of JARA
and he does a lot for the Association. We also visited Ruel, 6Y5RS, whose
very neat station we operated for about an hour. Ruel is one of the pioneers
in Jamaican radio-communications and most of his early work belongs to history.
The last amateur we visited was George, 6Y5GB, whom I worked
from home on SSTV. George lives in a story book palace and had more gear
than he ever could use.
It was not difficult to get a license in Jamaica; it may take
a few weeks but JARA could help cut the red tape.
The Jamaica Tourist Board published a booklet, “Interesting
People,” listing many Jamaicans by their hobbies and interests like Astronomers,
Botanists, Historians, etc. The “Amateur Radio Operators” column listed
9 hams with their addresses, all desiring to meet visiting amateurs.
Jamaica has very nice places easy to reach, and as my friend
Tony, G3SKR, would say “there they don’t drive on the wrong side of the road.”
I strongly recommend a vacation-DXpedition in the 6Y5-land.
You and your family will have so many things to do and see, that any visit will
seem too short.
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About 2 years ago, I had a QSO with Dick, PJ2CQ, and after
learning that he’s also in broadcasting, I invited him to New York. He
came and stayed with us for a couple of days. We had a “Welcoming Center
for Foreign Amateurs Visiting New York City” and we took him sightseeing, to
the radio stores and he even had a chance to study the set-up of CBS-TV, the
company I worked for. I was sure that if I ever went to Curacao, I would
have a good host.
Unfortunately, when our chance came, Dick was not available.
Instead we met Max, PJ2CE. I worked Max when he was on a little DXpedition
to Aruba. With Max as a guide we saw what perhaps was the world’s largest
oil refinery, various housing projects, a large phosphate deposit, even a jail
complex (from outside). At Max’s house we operated PJ2CE and chatted by
telephone with Jose, PJ2MI, a good friend whom we first met as PJ2JC in St.
Maarten.
The center of Willemsted, Curacao, especially the Otra Banda,
closely resembles Amsterdam; the same colorful houses, the same decorated gables,
the same small stores. The Dutch influence is visible everywhere.
Interesting point in Willemsted: the public phones are free.
Outside Willemsted we saw groups of huge cacti. Steve,
my father-in-law, wanted to be photographed with those grandiose but spiny plants.
I told him to get close to the cactus bushes and smile. The deeper he
went, the less he smiled. I kept directing him deeper and deeper and I
was just sorry that my mother-in-law was not with him.
I recommend visiting Curacao and if you bring along your in-laws,
this is the ideal place to photograph them. If you intend to stay a little
bit longer and operate, you have to apply well in advance for a PJ9 call.
Don’t trust the “duty free” prices, before you buy anything
you better double check with known home prices.
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Even though we were born in Romania, we speak Hungarian as
well. In Caracas we had the pleasure to meet Hungarian born amateurs:
Cornel, YV5CFV; and Helen, YV5CKR, with her family.
We had a few QSOs, but never met them before. When our
ship docked at La Guaira, the port of Caracas, there were many people waiting.
Which ones were the hams? I went to the upper deck, so everyone could
see me, and started to yell: “Calling CQ, calling CQ.” Hundreds of people
looked at me with interest, some with suspicion, but two of them threw their
arms in the air, starting to jump like in an Indian rain dance, and calling
me back. They were: Cornel and Helen.
They had come a long way from Caracas to meet us and they took
us back to their capital city.
In Caracas we visited the “Radio Club Venezuelano” and their
club station YV5AJ, where we met Cesar, YV2TV, one of the club’s most active
operators.
After a short sightseeing tour, we visited Cornel’s house and
his station, YV5CFV. We made a few QSOs and a W6 congratulated me for
my excellent English. I made thousands of QSOs from New York but nobody
ever congratulated me for that. I know for an YV5, my English is okay,
but for a WB2, my English has a “charming” Hungarian accent, yes darling.
Later we went to see Helen’s station, where we met her husband
Laci, YV5CIZ; and her son Laci Jr., YV1ACI, nicknamed Cika, all active hams.
Helen is also an excellent amateur painter.
What is a common language between a Romanian (my father-in-law
Steve, YO2BGP), some Americans (Eva, WA2BAV, and I WB2AQC) and a bunch of Venezuelans?
Hungarian of course. We exchanged notes to find out that there are perhaps
hundreds of Hungarian speaking hams around the world.
Caracas is a beautiful, modern city located in a deep valley.
So how come those YV signals are always so strong? I think because one
Venezuelan kilowatt equals 3 Californian kilowatts. And one Californian
kilowatt equals 3 East Coast kilowatts. And - as everybody knows that
- we, on the East Coast, are the only legal ones.
I recommend the local “creole” food specialties. The cooking
is made locally but the recipes are made in Heaven. Don’t try to visit
Caracas in one day, as we did, it is well worth a longer stay ... even if you
don’t speak Hungarian.
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As I did the last time we visited St. George’s, I called up
the local broadcasting company. One of the hams working there told me
to meet Evelyn, VP2GI. Evelyn, yes, is a man, lived in the center of the
city, but took time out from work to drive us around.
We later visited Mike, VP2GAE, who was about to move to Canada,
giving up his rare VP2G call for a common VE call; and Leroy, VP2GAI, who hopefully
will stay.
In the evening, a local steel band boarded the ship to serenade
up. It was OK but at about 120 dB above the level at which I usually enjoy
music.
Grenada, the Spice Island, is worth one day stopover.
If you go to the beaches, don’t take your cash with you. Most of these
islands don’t have sophisticated banking facilities, but some individuals are
real experts in transferring funds.
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I don’t believe in miracles but when just before our trip,
on a “dead” 10 meter band, came Bob, VP2LI, and set up a personal meeting, I
had to revise my belief. This was a special luck because Tim, VP2LT, whom
I met on a previous trip, did not answer my letter.
The minute we arrived at Castries, I called up Bob, VP2LI, chief
engineer of the microwave communications station. He arranged for us to
meet Stan, VP2LC, the Police Commissioner of St. Lucia; VP2LAW, a radio technician
from England; and Greg, VP2LG, whom we met on our first visit.
Stan, VP2LC, gave us a police car and an officer as a guide
to take us sightseeing. Steve, my father-in-law, was very impressed riding
in a police car; he had done this before in Romania, but was not for sightseeing,
and now for the first time, he was riding on the front seat.
We went to meet Bob, VP2LI, up at his station. The “rig”
is not unusual but the 20 and 30 foot parabolic dishes are quite impressive.
From his mountain top QTH there is an unobstructed view of the entire island
and beyond.
Around Castries we saw some beautiful villas, but for every
good, solid house, we saw hundreds of shacks where the whole family, cooked,
washed, ate and slept in one single room.
St. Lucia has nice spots, friendly hams, but I would not spend
a longer vacation there.
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As we docked in Fort-de-France I spotted Fan, FM7WN, and Brother
Vincent, FM7WG, who came to welcome us. I met Brother Vincent on a previous
trip and recognized Fan from his photo-QSL card.
With Fan and Vincent we toured the city, then the countryside.
We drove to Mount Pelee, a volcano which in 1902 erupted and destroyed the entire
capital city of St. Pierre, killing everybody except a prisoner in the jail’s
dungeon. Now that the volcano, with its top in the clouds, was quiet and
harmless, we did not see any good reason to get arrested.
We had lunch together and I have to recommend the local specialties.
After a day of sightseeing we visited Fan’s house and operated
his station, using his callsign: FM7WN.
First Eva called CQ and was answered by Car WB2LRK, a good friend
of ours from our home town, New York City. It’s really a pleasure to take
a long trip to far away places, then sit down at a radio station and talk with
your friends back home. We gave Car a new country for his DXCC.
I made a few QSOs and even sent a message to my boss at CBS-TV,
that I am okay and I’ll be back on time for work. During each of
our trips I’ve sent him that same message because he’s always worried that I’ll
overstay my vacation. Due to circumstances beyond my control, this time
I really was back on time.
We also visited the grammar school where Brother Vincent was
teaching. If you think the 20 meter band is noisy during the phone portion
of the CQ World-Wide DX Contest, visit a grammar school in recess.
Bring more than enough film with you, because if you have to
buy it locally, and if you find any, you may have to pay double the price at
home.
Don’t be over-confident that your English is good all over,
unless you only want to get information about Martinique from other American
tourists who know less than you do.
Graham Green wrote a very funny novel: “Travels with My Aunt.”
If my travelogue is not so good, it is only because Steve, my father-in-law,
is not as funny as Graham’s aunt. So every complaint should go directly
to my father-in-law, and to his wife who took all the fun out of him.
Look for them in the Romanian yellow pages under “Boring In-Laws.”